TannerRedBoneCoonhoundAdolescent

  NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE. NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:   EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY .  IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE.   SOME THINGS YOU CAN START TO MOVE INTO THE OUTSIDE (PENNED IN) AREA FOR DISTRACTIONS OR IN YOUR YARD ON THE 6' OR LONG LINE FOR PLACE.  SIT ON THE DOG, STILL SIT STAYS, CIRCLE PLACE, SEND TO PLACE, AND LONG PLACE ARE IN THAT CATEGORY NOW. NOTE 4:  WHEN I SAY  EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY.   NOW WE WANT TO CHALLENGE TANNER WITHOUT MAKING HIM SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY.  IT IS OKAY FOR IT TO BE HARDER NOW. NOTE 5:  THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS ...

 Behavioral Down Form (don't forget to follow directions, I just wanted to make sure you were practicing this correctly at home): Attempt at Circle Sit Stay with Crated Dog Distractions: Started with Sits with Correction and Then Still Sit Stays with Crated (and then Bandit came out towards end) Distractions: Heeling Without Luring Begun:

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. Heeling Begins Equipment needed: -6' Leather Lead -Training Collar ****NOTE, IF THE LONGE LINE HOMEWORK HAS NOT BEEN DONE, BEEN DONE INCORRECTLY, OR DONE INCONSISTENTLY DO NOT START HEELING. IT IS NOT FAIR TO THE DOG TO DO THIS, AND YOUR DOG WILL MOST LIKELY NOT BE COOPERATIVE. Explanation and Goal of Exercise: To teach the dog to walk in an exact position for convenience of the handler. The Longe Line Work has started the commands of heel, come, and future off leash behavior. It is also a method to teach the dog never to pull on the leash. However, a dog is still able to get under foot at times or not be in such a convenient position when they are out and about with you. The goal of heeling is to have your dog in an exact position for ease of...

  NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE. NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY .  IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE.  SOME THINGS YOU CAN START TO MOVE INTO THE OUTSIDE (PENNED IN) AREA FOR DISTRACTIONS OR IN YOUR YARD ON THE 6' OR LONG LINE FOR PLACE.  SIT ON THE DOG, STILL SIT STAYS, CIRCLE PLACE, SEND TO PLACE, AND LONG PLACE ARE IN THAT CATEGORY NOW. NOTE 4:  WHEN I SAY  EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY. NOTE 5:  THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS FOR THE EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DI...

  Sit stays in increasing distraction (possibly in your yard at this point, but these were with crated dogs): Step 2 of Sit Stays Circling Around Your Dog: Sits with Correction: Lured Heeling Step 2: Circle Place Leash Dropped and Then Long Place Leash Dropped with Distractions (you could use your penned in area at home for this):

  STEP 1:    Lure your puppy into a sit in heel position (puppy's shoulder should line up with your leg) on the side of you and facing in the same direction as you . STEP 2:  The hand holding the food reward will now be behind your back.  Remember it is your left hand holding the reward, your arm will be bent at the elbow and held up and behind your back. STEP 3:   Call your dog's name (remember the attention exercises) and when your dog looks at you, say "heel" as you step forward with your left leg. STEP 4:   When you start your heel, keep the food reward behind your back.   Start by attempting just five steps forward at first.  End this with your dog in a sit, and only if they are in a sit say "good boy or girl" and then pop food reward into their mouth. STEP 5:   Repeat.  Do 10 or 15 reps of this (not necessarily all at the same time.  if the puppy starts looking tired or flat at the end of a session then do a shorter ...

Equipment:  6' leash, training collar, and food reward STEP 1:  Walk with your dog, and them come to a stop.  Do have a food reward in your hand or readily accessible in a treat pouch. STEP 2:  Say "Sit" and give your dog a good "1 Mississippi Second" to complete the task. STEP 3A:  If your dog did the task, then say "Good Boy" and possibly give food reward (see notes below). STEP 3B:  If your dog did not do the task, give a well timed collar correction. For Tanner, he gets a food reward for responding to the collar correction (so try not to lure him with the treat unless he is stuck, otherwise let him do it on his own on the feel of the collar.   When he completes the task, give him a "Good Boy" and food reward.  NOTE:  Remember the correct way to give a collar correction has to do with a clean movement not the power behind the correction.   You just want it to be like a tap on the shoulder.   The correction goes as ...

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) 15' Leash (after four out of five stays while on the move with distractions can be accomplished at more than a 6' distance WITH distractions present) Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  The dog is required to ...

  NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE. NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY.  IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE. NOTE 4:  WHEN I SAY  EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY. NOTE 5:  THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS FOR THE EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.   THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, I THINK, IS THE MOLDED SITS.   HOWEVER, THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER TO START TO CHANGE BEHAVIOR. NOTE 7:  THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF YOU DON...

 Quiet Command Using Low Whine Instead of Bark, as We Could Not Get Him to Bark: Sit Stays Advancing The Duration: Step 1 of Lured Heeling: Circle Place with Leash Dropped: Long Place with Leash Dropped:

 If you can not get Tanner to bark, then you can use his low whine to start with.   That being said, some ideas for barking: Start outside where he might see something he is interested in barking at. If you have time and he starts barking, take the time to practice this then.  Some common occurrences of this might be mail man, oil man, dog barking in the distance, unable to get to one of you for whatever reason (and assuming other person has Tanner), video of dogs on YouTube might help.  In auto is the obvious, but for many reasons this is not the ideal place to start, although it could be done (more difficult to design it for the beginning point though). Sometimes if one of the owners rides a bike that will make a dog bark. If you are out walking and he is on leash, that could be a good time to practice with him if he sees a dog. Here are some youtube videos that I sometimes use in training (dogs are sometimes not fooled or get used to them quickly): https://ww...

  STEP 1:    Lure your puppy into a sit in heel position (puppy's shoulder should line up with your leg) on the side of you and facing in the same direction as you .  When sitting in position, you can give your puppy the food reward. STEP 2:   Before heeling, be sure to have a food reward in your left hand. STEP 3:   Now you want to stand straight with the treat now held above your dog's nose.   Remember though, that you still are luring him into the heel position that you want.  Arm should be extended slightly in front of you (not off to the side) to lure your puppy's head forward straight and slightly beyond your leg. STEP 4:   Say "heel" and step forward with your left foot.  Your treat hand should be held slightly in front of your puppy's nose. STEP 5   Go a number of steps forward (be sure that you can retain your puppy's focus (If it is difficult you probably need to reduce the steps).   If your puppy walks or veers ...

    NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE. NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY.  IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE. NOTE 4:  WHEN I SAY  EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY. NOTE 5:  THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS FOR THE EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.   THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, I THINK, IS THE MOLDED SITS.   HOWEVER, THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER TO START TO CHANGE BEHAVIOR. NOTE 7:  THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF ...

  Behavioral Exercises: (New) Behavioral Downs (not down command): Another dog doing a behavioral down with me: Obedience Commands: Continuing Molded Sits with Tanner, Food Treat Only after 4th molded sit: Still Sit Stays: Circle Place with Leash Dropped Increase Distance and Work Towards 1 minute (video of Tanner Missing for this one, so putting in another dog's video): ***Note we will be working to getting onto the long line and possible outside (weather permitting) with Tanner.  You can just work to getting to the end of the short leash this week or even possibly dropping (but not taking off) the short leash. Long Place Started:

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. NOTE1:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. NOTE2:  SINCE WE HAVEN'T STARTED GIVING THE COMMAND FOR SIT (WITHOUT A TREAT), YOU CAN COMBINE THIS WITH YOUR MOLDING EXERCISES, AND NOT GIVE A COMMAND FOR HIM STAYING STILL UNTIL YOU RELEASE HIM. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) Explanation and Goa...

  Long place is technically the 4th step in the overall place command:   First step is intro.  Intro is just walking the dog and letting them pass over it.  "Place" is said when all paws are on the place. Second step is teaching the dog to step on the place themselves. Third step is teaching them that there is a boundary they should not step off. Fourth step is beginning to proof and advance this exercise by having them keep themselves on the place for a period of time.   Trainer only gets involved if they try to leave. This teaches your dog that you might very well be in a seated position when they are in a place (while the third step has started the idea that you may be moving around the room).   This is tricky for dogs as they usually want to be petted or cuddled when you take a seat, but it is important that owners have time to read, work, eat a meal, and so on without constantly needing to pay attention to their dog.   Usually ...

 STEP 1:  Place flat leash on the ground. STEP 2:  Step on the leash, but you do not want the leash tight on the dog or puppy.    They should be able to stand if they want, but not get too far away from you.  ***Note unlike sit on the dog we are standing, and also we need to start in a really quiet non distracting area first, whereas on sit on the dog you can get away with being in a much more distracting area. STEP 3:  Wait not only for the puppy to go down, but also, you want their chin to rest on the ground.   Additionally, you want them totally relaxed and not sniffing or still actively seeking to check out their environment. STEP 4:  Time how long it takes to 1st Target behavior (total body relaxed and everything on the ground including their chin) and then how long the puppy or dog remains in target behavior. STEP 5:  Once the puppy or dog lifts their head up or engages in the environment again, wait until the second target be...

Equipment needed: 6' Leather Lead Training Collar Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This method of molding the dog into position, teaches the dog to allow our hands to mold and manipulate various parts of their body. The handler is also teaching themselves how to determine if a dog's muscles are relaxed with trust OR tense with distrust. Additionally, it is possible to detect a physical problem by touch as you mold your dog down. This also prepares your dog to sink into a sit readily when given the correction later on (if the correction is even necessary).  A sit is when your dog's upper torso is upright,  front leg(s) on the ground/floor, and bottom area is on the ground. Hand Drills (practice until your moves can move swiftly through the motions without the handler needing to think about it, before practicing with the dog): Practice these without the dog for a few minutes prior to starting. Your left hand will hold leash, transfer to your right hand (grasp near snap bol...

   NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE. NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY.  IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE. NOTE 4:  WHEN I SAY  EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY. NOTE 5:  THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS FOR THE EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.   THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, I THINK, IS THE MOLDED SITS.   HOWEVER, THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER TO START TO CHANGE BEHAVIOR. NOTE 7:  THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF Y...

 Sit on The Dog: Molded Sits: Intro to Place (note Tanner's video did not come out so another dog's video is below): Send to Place: Circle Place: