Week 3 Homework

 NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE.

NOTE 2:  DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG.

NOTE 3:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY.  IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE.

NOTE 4:  WHEN I SAY  EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY.

NOTE 5:  THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS FOR THE EXERCISES.

NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.   THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, I THINK, IS THE MOLDED SITS.   HOWEVER, THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER TO START TO CHANGE BEHAVIOR.

NOTE 7:  THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF YOU DON'T MAKE THE GOAL, DON'T WORRY AS LONG AS YOU PUT IN THE WORK TOWARDS THE GOAL.  PLEASE REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN CALL OR EMAIL ME WITH ANY TRAINING PROBLEMS THAT COME UP IN BETWEEN LESSONS.

NOTE 8:  DON'T FORGET TO WORK IN THE BEHAVIORAL DOWN EXERCISE!

NOTE 9:  DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE MOLDED SITS FOR NOW.

Homework Schedule and Time Recommendations:

  1. Sit on the Dog [video] 30+ minutes  Note:  We talked about putting a blanket or soft dog bed down for him when doing this, which is fine.  Also you do not need to do this AND behavioral down in the same day.  You can rotate these two behavioral exercises on different days.  Goal:  On Week 2, you want to increase difficulty level for this a bit (and weather permitting).  Places like where he might see out a window or days where it is possible to do this outside in the yard.
  2. Behavioral Down [video]  ???hopefully no more than 30 min Note:  We talked about putting a blanket or soft dog bed down for him when doing this, which is fine.  Also you do not need to do this AND behavioral down in the same day.  You can rotate these two behavioral exercises on different days.  Goal:  To have him able to complete both target behaviors easily.  To do this, you will probably need to start in a very quiet room with nothing to do.  We also talked about perhaps doing this when he is tired after a full day (though I don't normally rely on that, it sometimes helps with a particularly nosy FOMO (fear of missing out) dog.
  3. Advancing the Sit Stay Duration [video] 5 min at the beginning and then 10 min if you get to a 1 minute still sit stay.     Goal:  Start with getting four in a row at a very low time (like 10 seconds to start) and work on the goal of building up to a minute.  Don't increase the time until you can get 4 in a row easily at a previous time though.  NOTE:  WHEN HE FIRST SITS, DO GIVE HIM A FOOD REWARD TO BEGIN WITH.  ALSO I THINK IF HE GETS THOSE COLLAR CORRECTIONS BEFORE HE GETS UP, THEN WE MAY BE ABLE TO WORK THAT INTO A SIT CORRECTION FOR SIT FIRST COMMAND.  REMEMBER WE ARE NOT GIVING HIM THE FOOD REWARD FOR STAYING.   ALSO WHEN HE FIRST SITS BEFORE STAYING, WE ARE USING THE MARKER WORD "GOOD" BECAUSE WE ARE NOT RELEASING HIM UNTIL THE END.
  4. Circle Place with Leash Dropped [video] 10 min  Goal:  To work the circle place so you can circle him for a minute inside increasing the distance with the 6' leash dropped (in other words, you are not holding the handle).  
  5. Long Place with Leash Dropped [video] 5 min to start Goal:  To have him be able to stay on the long place by himself with you sitting a longer distance away not holding the leash (having the leash dropped).   Once he can easily do this for 5 minutes, then it is time to start building the minutes until he can do 30 minutes (probably not this week).  Once that time starts getting longer, you can rotate this on different days with the Sit on The Dog and Behavioral Down exercises.
  6. Lured Heel [video] 5 to10 minutes Goal:  Simply to be able to sustain his position while walking for 5 to 10 steps and then have him sit at the end.   This should be done in low distraction, and you are simply concentrating on keeping him in position and engaged.  NOTE:  IF YOUR DOG STARTS GETTING FLAT DURING A SESSION,  YOU CAN MAKE THE NEXT SESSION SHORTER.   THIS IS THE SORT OF TRAINING WHERE YOU WANT YOUR DOG ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT IT, AND HOPEFULLY WITH TANNER'S FOOD DRIVE THAT WON'T BE A PROBLEM.
  7. Quiet [video] 5 min Goal:  To be able to get four in a row of the dog being quiet after the "quiet" command is given and you can get directly to "yes" release word followed by food reward.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Week 1 Molded Sits and Release Word

Equipment needed: 6' Leather Lead Training Collar Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This method of molding the dog into position, teaches the dog to allow our hands to mold and manipulate various parts of their body. The handler is also teaching themselves how to determine if a dog's muscles are relaxed with trust OR tense with distrust. Additionally, it is possible to detect a physical problem by touch as you mold your dog down. This also prepares your dog to sink into a sit readily when given the correction later on (if the correction is even necessary).  A sit is when your dog's upper torso is upright,  front leg(s) on the ground/floor, and bottom area is on the ground. Hand Drills (practice until your moves can move swiftly through the motions without the handler needing to think about it, before practicing with the dog): Practice these without the dog for a few minutes prior to starting. Your left hand will hold leash, transfer to your right hand (grasp near snap bol...
Read more

Four Levels to Complete the Training Process in Teaching Commands

I don't know if most of the dog owning public is aware of the levels that we pass through when teaching a dog a certain command. Here are the four levels that I usually think of: 1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do .You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjunction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position. 2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understand i...
Read more

Glossary of common dog training tools and the definitions as Mannerly Mutts Dog Training uses them

Image
Through my experiences, readings, and discussions; these are the definitions that I have been coming up with to define terms that I use in dog training. It's important to note that other dog trainers or canine professionals may mean different things when these same terms are used. However, I try to remain true to these definitions, such as these, when I speak on dog subjects. Aggression ( I tend to untangle my definition from overlapping with fear or dominant as to the best of my ability) A canine with the confidence of forward moving action in order to further a goal. Associative Learning - As per wikipedia "Associative learning is the process by which an element is learned through association with a separate, pre-occurring element." Behavior Modification In dog training this is a series of steps and exercises that seek to improve a behavior in the domesticated canine that is seen as unsuitable to the human family or handler's purpose. (IE being a pet dog, a police d...
Read more