Equipment needed: 6' Leather Lead Training Collar Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This method of molding the dog into position, teaches the dog to allow our hands to mold and manipulate various parts of their body. The handler is also teaching themselves how to determine if a dog's muscles are relaxed with trust OR tense with distrust. Additionally, it is possible to detect a physical problem by touch as you mold your dog down. This also prepares your dog to sink into a sit readily when given the correction later on (if the correction is even necessary). A sit is when your dog's upper torso is upright, front leg(s) on the ground/floor, and bottom area is on the ground. Hand Drills (practice until your moves can move swiftly through the motions without the handler needing to think about it, before practicing with the dog): Practice these without the dog for a few minutes prior to starting. Your left hand will hold leash, transfer to your right hand (grasp near snap bol...
NOTE 1: ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH DONE. NOTE 2: DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3: EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION, UNLESS IT IS TOO VERY EASY. IN THAT CASE, YOU CAN SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE DISTRACTION FOR SIT ON THE DOG FOR INSTANCE. NOTE 4: WHEN I SAY EASY, THIS MEANS THE DOG IS CALM, NOT PANTING, AND YOU CAN DO THE MORE ACTIVE EXERCISES FOUR TIMES IN A ROW EASILY. NOTE 5: THE TEXT IN BLUE GOES TO THE LINKS OF THE DIRECTIONS OR THE VIDEOS FOR THE EXERCISES. NOTE 6: IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY. THE MOST IMPORTANT ONE, I THINK, IS THE MOLDED SITS. HOWEVER, THEY ALL WORK TOGETHER TO START TO CHANGE BEHAVIOR. NOTE 7: THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE. IF Y...
I don't know if most of the dog owning public is aware of the levels that we pass through when teaching a dog a certain command. Here are the four levels that I usually think of: 1) Demonstrate to the dog what you want him to do .You can do this by positioning or luring your dog into position. Dogs need to be shown what to do, because they don’t naturally know the things we take for granted that older dogs have already been taught. Obviously they don't understand our verbal cues, and need to be shown what they will correspond to in the future. In the Demonstration phase, the command is verbalized in conjunction with the luring or placing the dog into correct position. 2) Teach your dog what you want him/her to do (consistency and repetition). Let them know this is not a one-time command performance. There are rewards for the correct completion of a task Be consistent. Don’t tell your dog to “sit” unless you are ready to help him/her into a sit if they don’t quite understand i...
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